Datsun 280ZX IMSA GTU replica race car build...

Restores, Revamps and Repairs

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Grunzter
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Joined: Mon Mar 13, 2006 4:49 pm
Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Thu Nov 15, 2012 7:18 pm

Cheers Bernie, the blue looks a little light in colour when in the sun, but seems good when in the shade, at least it is a Nissan colour...
The funny thing is it looked a little to dark on the colour chart...
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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bernjean
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Post by bernjean » Thu Nov 15, 2012 9:48 pm

There is always a difference when you look at colours inside or in the sunlight, particularly for metallics. What ever you do never check a colour under florescent lights. They will badly distort the colour. The same colour can be made using different formulas, that's what can make them match up good in the light and poorly in the shade. The base ingredients need to be formulated the same as original. Always, always use the formula's. Never make paint colours up by hand and then eye match for final match. At work we have what we call swatchs. These little cards are prepainted to the colours required and will have the different variants for each colour, once we have established that the variant looks good against the colour we are matching to we will make it up and do a spray out card, and go through the process of comparing colours again. At this stage the colour can be given a final tweek by hand.
Bernie Kant

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Grunzter
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Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Fri Nov 16, 2012 8:23 pm

Yeh, the colour was mixed as per the formula based on the code.
I was with the painter as he mixed it and he done it exactly as per what the computer said, based on weight.
After mixing i checked it against the colour swatch which I selected, and it was spot on, so i said, go for it...

As well as the masking i also helped with the sanding back and prep work, learnt a lot so was pretty cool.

All the colours are solid.
Well its done now, and im pretty happy... its not pink & yellow!
cheers grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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nustad
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Location: Auckland

Nissan Sport Mag

Post by nustad » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:12 pm

The latest Nissan Sport Mag from the States has a 7 page Bob Sharp feature with one photo of you car in action. Not sure if you subscribe. Let know if you don't and I can scan for you.

Cheers Glenn
72 240z plus bits

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Grunzter
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Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:44 am

Thanks for that, i saw the website but was not sure how much of an article was inside...
I think i may need to buy that mag!
If you could scan the pic, would be nice in any case :)
Many thanks
Grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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nustad
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Bob Sharp

Post by nustad » Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:41 am

The pic itself is a bit average but the article is 7 pages with lots of history. There are a lot of photos across the years - plenty of the S30 race cars. I will scan and send if you let me know your email.
72 240z plus bits

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Grunzter
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Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:02 pm

Well finally back into this build after a long break.

Question: What metal protectant is best used after a paint job to stop water getting into those areas we don't water to get into.

Example: Tectal if it still exists?

Cheers
Grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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bernjean
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Post by bernjean » Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:42 pm

There is lots of rust proofing material out there. I assume that is what you are looking for. I can't for the life of me remember the product I used on my car, But I do remember it was very Thin but dried up well inside the panels. If my memory serves me correctly I used a converter and then a sealer, not sure could have been a product that did both jobs. I do remember it was designed for restoration work. I had to seal up all the drain holes in the car and apply the product through holes and use a multi spray nozzle. You can buy these applicators reasonably cheaply as they are not very complicated, they will come with a long wand and a nozzle that sprays 180 degrees. I had to leave if for a few hours and then remove tape from the drain holes. I used the "to much isn't going to hurt" policy so it poured out, that was about 8 years ago so far no rust. For parts like the tailgate I removed them from the car, poured the product in and then rotated the panels allowing the product to get into all the seems etc. The secret is, that the product has to kill any rust that is still there or has been missed, then leave it coated on the surface so that any moisture that doesn't touch the bare metal. If its to thick it won't go everywhere and will block up all the drain holes. The guys first name was Grant, had a funny second name, it will come back to me, I will do a little research through some if my old phone lists and try to track him down.
Bernie Kant

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ZMAD
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Post by ZMAD » Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:31 pm

My girl was done by previous owner and he said it dripped out the drain holes for many months. The areas concentrated on are well protected but for some reason areas were missed. The front area behind grille got nothing and rust was there before I repaired it. Also found rust when I removed interior panel behind rear doors above rear bench seat. Leaks in from small rear windows. I would recommend it being done everywhere possible.
All Nissans are racecars.

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Grunzter
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Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Wed Jul 31, 2013 12:28 pm

Thanks guys,
I will see what I can find based on your feedback and let you know what I can come up with...
Grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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240znz
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Location: Christchurch

Post by 240znz » Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:29 pm

I used non stinky fisholine. It stank. But it got everywhere and dripped out places you wouldn't think possible. The shell was still on the rotisserie so I did have the benefit of rotating it several times.
Zed NOT Zee

12/70 HS30-00352
1973 240Z rust car

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us2
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Location: Weymouth by the sea.Auckland.Don't dream it ,be there

Post by us2 » Thu Aug 01, 2013 8:58 am

I remember painting the shell of a 37 Ford V8 many years ago, with basic stinky Fisholene as that was what everyone used, and it stank of rotting fish for many months. :lol: :lol:
!972 240z
Retirement is great. Growing old sucks.

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djz
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Location: Christchurch

Post by djz » Wed Jan 07, 2015 7:01 pm

Whatever happened to this?
Nissan 280ZX 2 seater RB26 powered.

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maukuzed
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Location: mauku

Post by maukuzed » Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:35 am

Yes what did ever happen to this ?????????????

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Grunzter
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Location: Epsom, Auckland

Post by Grunzter » Sat Oct 20, 2018 12:58 pm

Ok, been very quiet for a long while, will most likely resurrect this project.

The first job is a major clean and to get it on its feet.

No doubt I will be back on here soon asking for recommendations of where to get things done, especially the things I am not able to do... which is a lot. LOL.

Cheers Grant
1981 280ZX #33 IMSA GTU Race Car ...not yet finished...
(Sold) 1984 300ZX Z31 2+2 Turbo
(Sold) 1980 280ZX 2+2

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